Day in Jungfraujoch

08.09.05

My day started early, going down the mountain and catching a train from Lauterbrunnen that would take me to the Top of Europe! The train station rests at at 3571 meters above sea level on Jungfraujoch, the pass between Jungfrau and Mönch.

The 40 km/h wind was harsh and constant when I arrived. I had shipped my winter jacket to school so I wouldn’t need to carry it through the otherwise balmy days, leaving me with just a sweater and jean jacket. I decided to layer on a “Top of Europe” fleece from the souvenir shop, and a Schoggi and vegetable soup to warm up.

Entering the Sphinx lift, a speedy (6.3 m/sec) elevator to the observation terrace, I was mildly amused because everyone on board was asian. I was a tourist, in a touristy spot. I discovered that the view was covered in cloud, which was just a little disappointing after the nearly 100 CHF price tag to take the train up here. But not to be dismayed, I decided to wander around and check back later.

I met a pair of Japanese girls on the way to the Ice Palace, where we took a few photos of the ice sculptures. Outside on the plateau, a Swiss military team had just finished a training exercise. I offered to take a photo of a Czech couple, and they returned the favour.

Then I checked out an exhibition with model trains, cog wheels and information on Adolf Guyer-Zeller who started this whole project over a century ago. The audio-visual show was in German, so it was just pretty pictures to me.

Returning to the observation terrace, I found it a little clearer and calmer. I took a few pictures of Mönch and the view between the fog. A silly crow landed on the rail, to the cheer of an otherwise unimpressed crowd.

Still making the best of the situation, I began the 45 minute trek up to Mönchsjochhütte. The midday sun still hidden behind the clouds, but reflecting off the snow, it was so incredibly bright. My cheeks blistered and my eyes burned, being totally unprepared for this journey.

I pondered what it must be like if God were our one light source, as proclaimed in Revelation:

“And there will no longer be any night; and they will not need the light of a lamp nor the light of the sun, because the Lord God will illumine them; and they will reign forever and ever.”¹

When I arrived at Mönchsjochhütte, I settled in for a cup of Jungfrau tea and a slice of pecan pie. Marvelous. The urinal was one of the strangest I’ve seen.

On my return, I “skated” down the snowy trail until I was back inside, and once again riding the elevator to the observation terrace. Still not much to see, and having spent nearly 5 hours on the Top of Europe, I decided it was time to start my way down.

I hopped off the train at the first stop to take a few photos of the surrounding mountains. There in Eigergletscher I discovered that I had lost my train ticket. The train departed, leaving me in a slightly gloomy mood, my knees pleading against another downhill adventure. Time again to make the most of it, and so I began my descent to Kleine Scheidegg.

Thoughts lingered of what I would do about my lost ticket, and how would I return to Wengen. But future concerns gave way to the present beauty: flowers peaking up along the path, cows grazing on the gentle slopes, such life! In the distance Mürren, neighbour to Gimmelwald where I stayed. Somehow I would get home.

Arriving in Kleine Scheidegg an hour later, it was no problem to get a temporary ticket using the receipt I had. I boarded the train and returned down to the town of Lauterbrunnen. Instead of going directly to Gimmelwald, I took the furnicular up to Mürren and walked through the street. I stopped to search the mountain range for Kleine Scheidegg and snapped a photo. Then finally returning to my Pension room via cable car as day gave way to evening.